Notes from: Marseille
Pétrin Couchette, Maison Empereur, Limmat, Plage de Maldormé, Tuba Club and more.
Hi everyone,
As I mentioned in my last newsletter, we’re not going anywhere until early March (which is only four weeks away, but feels like ages!). So, I came up with the idea of introducing a shorter version of Fellow Travellers Journal to bridge the gap for myself—and give you a more convenient format, specifically designed for city trips.
This new format is called Notes. After a brief explanation of why a particular city makes a great family travel destination, I’ll share tips on accommodation, restaurants, and things to do—without diving deeper into specific topics. At the end of the post, you'll find a directory of all the places I mentioned.
We’ll kick things off with Marseille, as one of my best friends is heading there this week.
We went to Marseille for about five days in mid-October 2023 for our autumn getaway. I absolutely adore Marseille—it has amazing restaurants and cool concept stores, much like Paris, but you can also walk to a beach and take a dip in the sea. It’s a short and relatively inexpensive flight from Berlin, making it perfect for a quick trip. Just be aware of the Mistral—a strong, cold, and dry wind that blows from the north or northwest in Provence, particularly in Marseille, typically occurring between November and March.
We stayed in this Airbnb (which, unfortunately, doesn’t seem to be bookable at the moment), and I can recommend staying in the 7th or 8th arrondissement, as it’s the perfect location if you want to be close to cool spots and within walking distance of both the Old Port and a beach. The apartment is opposite Bar La Relève, a fantastic bar and restaurant that also rents out four rooms (this is probably where I’d stay if I were travelling without kids).
Pétrin Couchette is perfect for a second breakfast and for picking up sourdough bread. It’s next to Maison Empereur, a hardware store dating back to 1827, where you could easily spend a day. Last time, I went for traditional Provençal pocket squares, which I use as neckerchiefs for the children.
From Maison Empereur, walk uphill towards my favourite restaurant Limmat, passing by a vibrant stretch of North African vendors, many of whom are from Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia, selling everything from baskets, textiles, and fragrant spices to olives, dried fruits, and traditional ceramics (though when it comes to Moroccan ceramics, I’d usually buy mine from my friend Nora Kherredine, who runs a lovely shop in Munich).
Piou is a charming deli where we often picked up a fantastic lunch salad, and T65 is a wonderful bakery.
We stumbled across the Marché Monthyon on our way to the Jogging Concept Store. This small, authentic market, set in front of the historic Palais Monthyon, offers a great selection of fresh, local produce. The market is typically open during the week, from around 8 AM to 1 PM.
Ensemble is a bookshop and gallery specialising in contemporary photography. One of our close friends, the Swedish photographer Erik Gustavsson, has published two books with Ensemble’s publishing outlet Loose Joints.
I actually didn’t expect to be able to swim in mid-October in Marseille, so it was a pleasant surprise to do so. Plage des Catalans, a sandy city beach, was only about a 10-minute walk from our apartment, while Plage de Maldormé was a short drive away. You can jump into the water from a concrete platform or from the rocks. It’s definitely not a kid-friendly spot, but I enjoyed that swim a lot. While you're in the area, check out Cécile Food Club Malmousque for delicious salads and sandwiches.
On another trip with the car, we went to Tuba Club in Les Goudes, located in the stunning Calanques National Park. That day, swimming wasn’t possible because the sea was too wild, but we still enjoyed oysters and snacks on the terrace.
After five days in Marseille, we continued our trip to Provence, staying at Le Moulin for two nights. But if I went into more detail, it wouldn’t truly be a Note.
Safe travels,
Franka
Restaurants
Bar La Relève
Limmat
Tuba Club
Cafés and Bakeries
Pétrin Couchette
Piou
T65
Cécile Food Club Malmousque
Beaches
Plage des Catalans
Plage de Maldormé
Shops and Markets
Maison Empereur
Marché Monthyon
Jogging Concept Store
Ensemble
